Design your own wardrobe as you learn the basics of pattern drafting from clothing designer Cal Patch. Over this four-week course, Cal covers the basics of drafting a versatile pattern for dresses, tunics, shirts and skirts using nothing but your own measurements, a measuring tape, pencil and paper. Cal will also demystify how to make a muslin, adjust fit, and customize details. At the end of the course, you’ll have a master pattern tailored just for you, as well as the inspiration and know-how to whip up a brand new wardrobe from scratch.
has been making, designing and teaching all things textile-related in New York City since 1991. She sews, crochets, embroiders, spins, prints, knits, dyes, and more. She designed clothing for Urban Outfitters, Free People, Gap, and Old Navy before developing her own line of one-off pieces called "hodge podge", which she currently sells at craft fairs and in her Etsy shop. After owning a boutique for four years which showcased her own and other local indie designers' work, she opened one of the nation's first craft schools in 2002. She contributes to books and magazines such as Stitch N' Bitch: The Happy Hooker, Mend It Better, Applique Your Way, Crochet Today and Sew Stylish. In 2009 Cal relocated to upstate New York where she is learning to be a crafty farmer. She offers classes through her teaching venture, Double Knot Studio, and travels to teach at retreats and events like Squam Art Workshops and Sock Summit. Her first book, Design-It-Yourself Clothes: Patternmaking Simplified, was published by Potter Craft.
WEEK 1: PATTERN DRAFTING - How to Make a Master Dress Pattern
Cal focuses on which measurements you need to take in order to draft a pattern that can be used to create a shirt, tunic, or dress simply by adjusting the length. Once your pattern is drafted, you’ll be ready to start sewing in the next episode!
- How to take measurements for drafting a dress, tunic, or shirt pattern
- How to chart those measurements onto a master pattern piece
- How to draft sleeve and collar pattern pieces
- How to label your pattern pieces
WEEK 2: PATTERN DRAFTING - Make a Muslin, Adjust Fit, and Sew
Cal shows you how to create a muslin, and then walks you through the steps for confidently adjusting fit and making changes to the pattern. Once your pattern is finalized, you’ll be ready to sew your custom garment.
- How to make a test garment
- How to make fit adjustments
- How to transfer adjustments to your pattern piece
- How to sew darts
- How to sew and finish your garment
WEEK 3: PATTERN DRAFTING - A-Line Skirts and Customizing Garments
Now you’re ready to mix things up. Cal teaches you how to draft an A-line skirt, and she shares tailoring techniques to fill your sewing arsenal – including adding gathers, zippers, pockets, and waistbands.
- How to draft and sew an A-line skirt
- Ideas for customizing
- How to slash and spread a pattern
- How to add a cutaway pocket and a patch pocket
- How to add a waistband
- How to make a gathered interior yoke seam
- How to add elastic
WEEK 4: PATTERN DRAFTING - Make a Pattern from an Existing Garment
In this final episode, Cal shares an easy technique for drafting a pattern from an existing garment – so you can replicate the most beloved items in your closet. This technique is especially handy if you have a favorite store-bought dress or shirt that’s seen better days (or if you wish you had one in every color!). Cal also explains how to make slight sizing adjustments to any pattern in case you want to make one for a friend.
- How to use an existing garment to create a pattern
- Various ways to transfer pattern marks
- How to size a pattern up or down
Tools & Materials:
Pattern Drafting Supplies:
- – 18” x 24” pad of paper (such as newsprint, sketch, or drawing paper)
- – Tracing paper (optional, for collars)
- – Clear tape
- – 18” x 2” clear plastic ruler
- – Pencil
- – Eraser
- – Measuring tape
- – Scissors (for paper)
- – Hip curve, or other curved tool (optional)
- – 2 to 3 yards of muslin (or other inexpensive cotton fabric)*
- – 2 to 3 yards of fashion fabric (in cotton, linen, hemp or drapey fiber of your choice)*
- – 1 yard single-fold 1/2” bias tape
- – All-purpose thread to match muslin and fashion fabric
- – Sewing machine
- – Basic Sewing Kit: Fabric shears, small scissors or snips, pattern weights (optional), pins and pincushion, seam ripper, tailor’s chalk or wax
- *exact yardage will depend on pattern dimensions and fabric width
- – Pattern Drafting Supplies (see week 1)
- – Basic Sewing Kit (see week 2)
- – Sewing machine
- – 2 to 3 yards of fashion fabric for skirt in fiber of your choice (exact yardage will depend on pattern dimensions and fabric width)
- – Invisible zipper
- – Zipper foot and Invisible zipper foot for your machine
- – 1 yard 1/4”-wide elastic (optional)
- – A shirt or dress you would like to duplicate
- – Pattern drafting supplies (see week 1)
- What's this new kind of class?
- We all love project classes, but many of you asked for a deeper dive on topics near and dear to your heart. So we're debuting monthly workalong classes that focus on fundamentals. Every month we will bring you a new topic, with weekly video installments. And access to the instructor through weekly live chats so you can follow right along and ask questions as the class progresses.
- Do I get these classes with my subscription?
- Yes indeed. Every month's workalong course is available only to subscribers. That includes access to the weekly live chats and downloads. So not only does ten bucks a month get you hundreds of classes and two new classes every week, but also a new workalong course every month. It's a screaming good deal, folks.
- I just found out about this course and it's already underway. Can I still join?
- Yes, you can join at any time. You will be able to watch any previous episodes that have already been released. If you join late, you will miss out on participating in the weekly live chats since they are, well live. But we archive them so you can still hear what everyone was talking about.